Qarma Tandoori, Leek
Qarma Tandoori, situated in Leek in the Staffordshire Moorlands, offers a winning combination. British Indian restaurant classics plus less familiar and more innovative dishes. On my first visit I was impressed by the excellent quality and well-judged spicing.
QARMA TANDOORI
Before moving to the Staffordshire Moorlands I lived in Leicester for 25 years. There, I was spoilt for choice when it came to Indian restaurants. Especially those whose clientele had first hand knowledge of Indian cooking or knew it from their parents and grand parent’s cooking. But the Moorlands doesn’t exactly have a diverse ethinic population and I hadn’t yet found an Indian restaurant up to the quality of those in Leicester.
However, I’d heard good things about Qarma Tandoori in Leek. Looking at their menu, I was encouraged to see not just the staple dishes found on virtually all British Indian restaurant menus. As well as Rogan Josh, Dansak, Jalfreze, Chicken Tikka etc., there were less familar items, including from South India and Goa.
So myself and partner ID went along to give them a try.
Qarma sits inside a former textile mill with some nice original features, such as brick archways. We sat on comfy sofas and had a drink from the bar while choosing what to eat.
I liked the way the menu had sections for Old Favourite Starters such as Lamb or Chicken Samosas, Onion Bhaji, Sheek Kebab etc. and also The Time Old Favourites for familar main courses like Rogan Josh, Jalfreze and Dansak.
As always on a first visit, I wanted to try as many different dishes as possible. So we shared three starters and three mains, as well as poppadoms and dips to begin.
NEW & INNOVATIVE STARTERS
In the New & Innovative Starters section there were twenty or so delicious-sounding dishes. I was immediately drawn to South Bangladeshi Crab. This was minced crab cooked in garam masala, grilled in the tandoori oven with herbs.
This well spiced dish came in a generous portion, served in its own edible basket in the form of a crispy, spiced rice roll.
Our second starter was Keema Peas Special. This was marinated minced lamb (there’s also a chicken version) served in a delicious folded flatbread. Along with the full flavoured meat were goat’s cheese and spicy peas.
Thirdly, I just had to try the South Indian style Beetroot and Coconut Samosa. Besides coconut being one of my favourite flavours, I’ve recently been experimenting a lot with roasted, spiced beetroot. This combination, flavoured with mustard seeds, curry leaves, cumin and chilli, was right up my street.
MAIN COURSES
BANGLADESHI HOME SPECIAL
For our main courses, we went firstly to the Seafood section. The Bangladeshi Home Special of six or so minced prawn balls in a spicy sauce was described as ‘the way mums cook them in a traditional Bangladeshi household’. Served with lemon and chilli rice, this was quite different to anything I’d had before and I really enjoyed it.
GOAN SPECIAL
The Qarma Goan Special comes with either chicken, fish or vegetables – we chose vegetable – in a thick sauce. According to the menu it’s flavoured with garlic, lime, ginger, fresh coriander, chilli, mint, roasted fennel, star anise and cinnamon. Like the prawn balls dish, this wasn’t overly chilli-hot. Rather, a gentle, warming heat gradually built up.
There was an excellent selection of vegetables (including potatoes, carrots, aubergine) which were well cooked. I particularly enjoyed the okra, a vegetable I didn’t think I liked (probably because previously I’ve had it badly cooked, including by me!). Here it was tender but still had some bite.
QARMA TANDOORI MIXED GRILL
Alongside these two dishes, we chose the more familiar Tandoori Mixed Grill. After all, can you come to a place called Qarma Tandoori and not have something from the tandoor oven at least once?
It was exactly what you’d hope for. A tandoori chicken quarter, sheek kebab, chicken tikka and some lamb shashlik with peppers and onions. All perfectly cooked, juicy, lightly spiced. And very tasty indeed.
WINNING COMBINATION
As we’d eaten quite a lot, we unfortunately didn’t have room for one of their traditional Indian desserts. But, judging by some of the dishes passing our table (including brownies, ice cream and chocolate sauce on a dramatic, sizzling hotplate) we’d better try one or two on our next visit.
I think the combination of old ‘curry house’ classics alongside less familiar and more innovative dishes is a winning one.
The atmosphere was casual, the service attentive but friendly. As well as the obvious talents of the kitchen staff, front of house were good too and made sure we were enjoying our meal. Sonal was particularly engaging and, considering it was his first night at Qarma, made a very good impression.
The few quibbles we had were minor. One of the drinks we ordered didn’t appear and I think the mango sauce that should have accompanied the samosa was missing.
Having said that, I’d happily visit again. I enjoyed everything I ate. The spicing was well judged: head and shoulders above their immediate competitors, I’d say. The menu has lots of tempting dishes, both familar and new to me, and I’d love to try more of them.
If you haven’t been to Qarma, I recommend it. There’s sure to be something you’ll love, whether it’s a well executed old favourite or something entirely new.
Takeaway also available.