THE BANK HOUSE HIXON
I’d first visited The Bank House Hixon, near Stafford, at a preview following its refurbishment by new owners. Liking what I saw, and tasted, I recently returned to see how they were doing. In this friendly and traditional country inn I found quality pub food and a warm welcome.
THE BANK HOUSE HIXON: NEW OWNERS & A REFURB
Back in September 2018, I was lucky enough to be invited for a sneak peek at the newly refurbished Bank House Hixon before it officially opened to the public.
This country inn, around eight miles east of Stafford, was taken over by local hospitality company The Lewis Partnership in summer 2017. Having enjoyed visits to their other properties including The Moat House Acton Trussell and The Red Lion Bradley (and subsequently The Dog & Doublet Sandon), I jumped at the chance. Along with other invited foodies, I enjoyed a glass of bubbly and delicious pizza from the courtyard wood-fired pizza oven.
Set in a four hundred year old building, the restaurant had been lovingly refurbished. Comfortable, but with modern touches, the beautiful original features such as wooden beams had been maintained.
What I saw and heard on that preview afternoon led me to think The Bank House Hixon was likely to be another Lewis Partnership triumph. So I resolved to leave it a few weeks, go back for the full dining experience and tell you all about it. I don’t think it’s fair to review a place too early. Better to let things settle and get any teething problems sorted.
But with one thing and another, before I knew it, Christmas was looming. I make it another rule not to do any serious reviewing over Christmas as I don’t think the experience, and probably the food, is going to be typical. And what you need to know is what you’re likely to encounter when you roll up on an ordinary evening.
That’s how I came to be at The Bank House one chilly, misty Saturday night in January.
RETURN VISIT
On my preview visit, although a bright and sunny Autumn day, I’d noted the cosy nooks and bar areas with their log burners and thought what a great spot they’d be come Winter. And I was right. Hurrying over from the car park just opposite, The Bank House Hixon in January was so warm and inviting. We’d booked a table for relatively early in the evening but there were plenty of punters already, including a few pooches in the dog friendly area of the pub.
There’s a good range of beer, ales and lagers which change regularly. Sitting in a snuggly bar with a pint or two, maybe after an afternoon walk and with my dog at my feet, sounds like my idea of a good time. But there was no doggo with us that night, and we were doing Dry January, so it was into the restaurant.
I was pleased to see that my current favourite non-alcoholic tipple was available: Fever-Tree Elderflower Tonic Water. Light, refreshing and not too sweet.
MENUS
After enjoying the thin and crispy wood-fired pizza at the preview, I was rather disappointed they weren’t on the menu that night. This was due to staff illness.
I’d been particularly pleased that almost half of the pizzas didn’t have a tomato base. That may seem strange to many Brits but, as I said in my review of The Napoli in Leek, if you go to a decent pizza restaurant in Italy, you might find a whole section of the menu just for ‘pizza bianca’ or white pizzas. If so, you can almost guarantee that’s where I’ll order from.
At The Bank House preview, I’d particularly enjoyed ‘The Fun-Guy’ (£9.00): mushrooms, ricotta, pumpkin seeds and chilli flakes on a garlic butter base. However, a return match was not on the cards that night.
Still, there remained a good amount of choice, including extensive Vegetarian & Vegan, Gluten Free and Dairy Free menus.
Unlike the Lewis Partnership’s other three venues where there’s a pretty even mix of pub classics and modern British cooking (plus a very fine tasting menu at The Moat House), I’d say The Bank House favours the more traditional pub side. That’s not a criticism. One of their strengths is that each of the properties has their own identity, and long may that continue.
STARTERS
SMOKED SALMON SCOTCH EGG
From the starters, I chose Smoked salmon scotch egg, tartare sauce (£5.95). I guess we’ve come to expect a runny yolk in our pub and restaurant Scotch eggs. I’m not massively bothered either way in terms of taste. But I admit there’s something rather exciting about being presented with a whole Scotch egg, cutting into it, and seeing whether the yolk will come oozing out. In many dishes, the yolk serves as a moistener to the rest of what’s on the plate too.
Here, the hard-yolked egg was presented already cut open. However, there was plenty of tangy tartare sauce to provide the moisture needed.
After an initial smokiness, I’d say the filling tasted more of salmon than smoked salmon. I happily ate all of it, but there was a seasoning (some dried herb or other?) I couldn’t quite identify which I’m not convinced it needed.
CHORIZO HASH
My other half, ID, continued the eggy theme with his choice of Chorizo hash, fried egg (£5.95).
To be honest, this would’ve been my first choice too. But, unless we’re both really dead set on a particular menu item, I prefer us to have different dishes. That way, swapping mouthfuls from each other’s plates, I can try more of the menu and get a clearer picture of what a place has to offer. It’s not because I’m greedy. Honest.
Anyway, I did the honourable thing and let him have it.
Coming from the French hacher, ‘to chop’, hash is traditionally pieces of meat and potatoes (often leftovers or tinned corned beef) fried together. As a breakfast dish it’s frequently topped with eggs. However, the Bank House Hixon served it as a patty, coated in a crispy crumb. And very good it was too.
I think chorizo, potato and egg is a wonderful combination. It’s one that appears quite frequently at our house, whether in a Spanish style tortilla omelette or as potatoes sauteed with peppers, topped with fried chorizo, eggs and crunchy croutons.
Within the patty, the chorizo was quite chunky, studded through the smooth mashed potato. The plump fried egg was cooked perfectly. A sweep of chorizo-flavoured oil brought together the hash, egg and accompanying salad garnish.
A simple, yet lip-smacking plate of food.
It certainly got ID’s appetite going; in the middle of it he suddenly decided to order a portion of chips to go with his main course.
MAIN COURSES
PIE OF THE WEEK
As we were in largely traditional pub fare territory, what better choice to test an establishment than Pie of the week with greens, mash potato, gravy (£12.50)?
That week’s pie was minced beef. Goodo. Nice and simple, but nowhere to hide if it’s below par.
I was happy to see it was an individual pie I was getting. My heart sinks when I’m served up a slice from a larger pie. In the reheating, the filling is almost always dry except for that tantalizing bit in the middle that’s managed not to be blasted.
The pastry was well-made, thin and crispy, and allowed the filling to be the star of the show. The minced beef was tasty and surrounded in plenty of gravy. More gravy came in a little jug.
As with the Scotch egg filling, there was some undefinable flavour in there which, to my taste, masked rather than improved the beefy mince. It hinted at a warm spice. Nutmeg? Cinnamon? Personally, I’d have preferred the pie without it.
Besides the minced beef there were also peas within the pie, so it was a pity that the accompanying veg consisted of kale and more peas. Maybe one lot of peas could be replaced with carrots, a traditional pairing with beef?
Nevertheless, this was good plate. I should also mention that the mashed potato was perfectly seasoned and absolutely smooth.
CHICKEN CAESAR
After enjoying the dish at The Dog & Doublet, ID again plumped for Chicken Caesar Salad (£11.50).
We’d previously been impressed by the quality so were pleased to see that certain elements had been bettered here.
Last time, the chicken breast had been left whole and, as I’d pointed out in my review, this made it a little difficult to eat. Happily, at The Bank House Hixon, they’d decided to slice it.
ID also thought the cooking of the chicken was actually better this time, it being a little juicier. All the other elements were spot on too: a gutsy dressing, white anchovies, bacon and tasty, crunchy croutons.
ID’s afterthought of a side order of Pub chips (£2.75) turned out to be a good decision too. Fat, crispy and hot, these were proper chips. We both took the opportunity to dip a few into my jug of gravy. Nice.
DESSERTS
CRANBERRY & ALMOND BAKEWELL TART
Bakewell tart is something I’ll often order when I see it on a dessert menu. I love the combination of pastry base, smooth almond frangipane and fruitiness.
At The Bank House Hixon it came in the guise of Cranberry & almond Bakewell tart (£5.95). I thought the addition of some astringency brought by cranberries sounded like a very good innovation.
The pud came with a dinky bowl containing a fruity compote of mixed sweet-tart berries too.
When desserts come with a jug of cream on the side, in my case it often goes untouched. That’s because I don’t find it adds anything a lot of dishes. But this pot of berries was a delightful and sharp (but not too sharp) contrast to the rich and smooth Bakewell tart.
CHOCOLATE TORTE
ID loves his chocolate puddings so it was no surprise he went for Chocolate truffle torte, pouring cream (£6.25).
This wasn’t a fancy dessert, but rightly simple and chocolatey. The torte was smooth, on a biscuit crumb base, and came with a refreshing fruity garnish.
A drizzle of caramel sauce added another dimension to the pouring cream already in the dish. Extra pouring cream came in a jug on the side; more a fan of it than I, ID polished the whole lot off.
REWARDS
It was only as we were leaving The Bank House Hixon, spotting a flyer, that I remembered that The Lewis Partnership runs a reward scheme. Given that I now frequent all of their properties, it was a bit silly of me not to have signed up for them already. Doh!
When I signed up the next day (it took less than five minutes) two offers immediately popped up on my phone: a voucher for £5 off food until 21st March plus twenty per cent off food on Mondays to Fridays during January and February (except Valentines).
My advice: don’t leave it like I did, go and sign up straightaway. When you’ve finished reading this review first, of course.
RECOMMENDED
While I was initially disappointed that pizzas were temporarily off the night I visited, the meal turned out to be a good one. I had a couple of niggles, but they were really a matter of personal taste.
If you’re after some quirky, modern British cooking then The Bank House Hixon probably won’t be your first choice. But if you want more traditional pub food, or maybe just a drink in a welcoming, country inn, then I recommend you give it a go.
What you will find as standard at all four of the Lewis Partnership properties, is excellent customer service. Everywhere we’ve been, staff are friendly, knowledgeable and efficient. On a busy Saturday night, with some larger groups to contend with too, we were dealt with promptly. Servers regularly checked we were happy with our meal and that we had enough drinks.
With the food bill coming in at just a few pence over £25 per person, the reasonable prices found at their other pubs and restaurants was there too. Yes, this isn’t the cheapest pub food, but cheap doesn’t necessarily equal good value and what you’re getting here is quality.
I’ll undoubtedly be returning to The Bank House Hixon. Not least to try and get my hands of one of those delicious, wood-fired pizzas again.
