Bread + Batter, Leek

I wasn’t planning on writing a review of Leek’s latest restaurant and bar, Bread + Batter, just yet.

After all, when I went there for lunch, they’d only been open four days so it seemed fairer to let them settle in a bit. Even the best-planned openings can have unforeseen teething problems and to judge them so early would be a little mean.

So, while I wanted to sample as soon as possible what sounded like an interesting combination of chip shop classics with some innovative touches, I thought I’d post a few quick comments on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram and then return in a month or so, after they’d settled in, before writing a blog post.

However, the Facebook post in particular got such a lot of interest that it was clear the opening of Bread + Batter was quite an event, with loads of people wanting to hear about it and also share it with others.

So, I guess by public demand, here’s my initial thoughts.

We’d decided to go for lunch the Saturday after Bread + Batter opened as we were food shopping in Leek anyway, and often stop off for something to eat before heading home.

Entering Bread + Batter from Haywood Street, the first thing you notice is all the wood. Not just wooden tables, but rough wooden planks to eat off at the breakfast-bar-style window seating and large chipboard (no pun intended) panels on the walls. There was also a bright and quirky mural on one side of the restaurant.

I really did like the look of the place, although I admit I was a bit wary of the possibility of splinters as we’d chosen to sit at the stools by the window with their plank of wood bar. Nevertheless, I came away unscathed.

Lunch Time Special

There’s an All Day menu, also available Friday and Saturday evenings, but we chose from the Lunch Time Specials which features smaller versions of dishes, virtually all priced at £5, plus a selection of panini and wraps.

My other half, ID, fancied the Homemade Fishcake but was informed that they were only just being made so not available. This is a good example of why it’s unwise to jump to a view on a newly opened restaurant – I can let slide their misjudged timing on this occasion, but I wouldn’t be as forgiving if they made the same mistake four weeks from now. On the plus side, it’s good to know that they’re serving homemade stuff and not just buying in frozen items.

Rather disappointed at not having fishcakes, ID joined me in ordering the Small Battered Cod which came with twice-cooked chips and your choice of sauce: mushy peas, ‘ultimate’ mushy peas (70p extra), chip shop gravy, homemade gravy, curry sauce, homemade tartare sauce or the intriguingly named ‘baconnaise’ – homemade mayo with ground smoked streaky bacon.

I plumped for the tartare sauce and ID for the ultimate mushy peas, described on the menu as being enriched with butter and chopped pancetta.

the perfect fish and chips?

We didn’t have long to wait before our plates arrived and we were pleased to see that the fish was coated in a very light batter and not one of those bright orange crusts where you seem to end up with more batter and grease than fish. Cutting into the delicate and crispy batter, we found the cod to be spankingly fresh and perfectly cooked. In fact, I can’t remember the last time I had battered cod this good and fresh away from the coast. Although the fish was described on the menu as ‘small’ I found it to be just right for lunchtime eating – and I’m not exactly a light eater – but you can have the £7.50 version if you want a larger meal.

The chips, twice-cooked in traditional beef dripping (hurray!) were full of flavour and reminded me of the sort of chips you only seem to get at the seaside and, real or imagined, always taste better than the ones you get back home. There wasn’t a huge mound of chips, but for £5 I thought the serving size was very good value considering the high standard.

The homemade tartare sauce was really good too; nice and chunky with capers, gherkin and pickled onion. I had a taste of ID’s ultimate mushy peas and we both really enjoyed them. Bread + Batter just need to make sure they remove the tiny little bone you often get in bacon as we found a couple amongst the peas. But, other than that, this version of the chip shop classic was a success in our view.

I really liked the old-fashioned white and blue tin plates the food was served on; they reminded me of the stews we’d eat, from dishes like these, when I was a child. They seem to be making a comeback now and I’m all for it. The plates had been properly warmed too.

Due to what I can only think must be some buried childhood memory, I always crave a glass of Vimto when I have fish and chips. Either that or a milkshake. So I was in a bit of a quandary at Bread + Batter, as they had Vimto on the menu but also ‘hard’ milkshakes like White Russian with Snugbury’s clotted cream ice cream, espresso and vodka. However, it being not much after 12.30, I plumped for the Vimto. ID had tea and, although they’d temporarily run out of teapots, they did say to let them know if he wanted a top up.

Highly recommended

Overall, we were very happy with our lunch at Bread + Batter. I feel sure that the little niggles we had were simply teething problems of these first, very early, days.

The staff seem very friendly and eager to please, so I’m confident they’ll get on top of the one or two issues I’ve mentioned.

We’ll definitely be going back, whether for a quick weekend lunch or an informal evening meal. Besides the chip shop classics, you’ll find skewers of chicken, lamb, cod, steak or halloumi with a choice of sauces and sides, and burgers too.

As Bread + Batter is licensed, there’s a selection of beers, wines, spirits and cocktails and you can finish your meal with something from their long list of cakes, tray bakes and cheesecakes.

Keeping up Leek’s tradition of being a dog friendly town, you can take along your pooch too.

I hope the initial interest in Bread + Batter continues, with locals and visitors alike helping to make this promising little place a great success. In the meantime, the owners and staff should be very pleased with what they’ve achieved so far.