02/09/2024

Eating Out Recommendations September 2024

I’d love to be able to write full blog reviews of all my eating out recommendations. But, timewise, it’s not possible. So, here’s the latest of my occasional round-up posts featuring some of the independent cafes, pubs, takeaways, and restaurants I’ve enjoyed recently.

Among the highlights are exceptional bistro fish and chips, tender Bangladeshi lamb at a popular restaurant, food metres not miles at a Cheshire farm, fresh Vietnamese food in Stoke-on-Trent, cosy outside dining at a Moorlands pub, and quality Turkish takeaway. I also return, after too long away, to a restaurant that’s part of the backbone of Leek’s independent food scene.

EXCEPTIONAL FISH & CHIPS AT DUCK GOOSE

Last month began with a cracking meal at Duck Goose bistro in Leek. As I said in my June Eating Out Recommendations, this friendly place started out brilliantly a couple of years ago. But it really does just keep getting better and better.

Because I’ve been so impressed with everything I’ve eaten there, I guessed their fish and chips would be good. But even I wasn’t prepared for just HOW good.

The pollock fillet was fresh, tasty and moist. It came in a fantastically light, thin and crunchy beer batter. Unusually, gluten and dairy free came as standard. Its bed of fat, triple cooked chips was perfect. On the side were quality mushy peas, chunky tartare sauce, plus charred lemon for squeezing over.

This great dish is regularly on their lunch and dinner menu, currently at £15.95. I happened to go on a Fish & Fizz Friday so got a FREE glass of prosecco too. Which made it even better value for this exceptional standard.

My partner ID and I also ordered a side of delicious onion rings to share. Just £3.95 and coated in more of that amazing crispy beer batter.

Somehow, we managed desserts too. For me, smooth, rich chocolate delice with lovely raspberry sorbet and chocolate chip cookie crumble (£8.95). ID had (for about the third time) Duck Goose’s famous sticky toffee pudding (£7.95).

Leek is so lucky to have this exceptional, friendly place (that also does a nice line in cocktails…).

A BIRTHDAY MEAL AT SPICE MERCHANT, LEEK

ID’s birthday falls in August, and for the second year in a row he chose Spice Merchant for his birthday meal. Serving up Indian and Bangladeshi dishes of a high standard with beautifully judged spicing, we regularly have takeaway from there too. Being regulars, we have our favourites. But this time I decided to try two of their dishes I hadn’t had before.

First off was paneer tikka. Generous slabs of the Indian fresh cheese and chunks of pepper marinated in yogurt and spices then well charred. It looked like it might be too charred for my taste, but I enjoyed it.

For my main course I chose Bangladeshi Lamb. I’ve eaten lots of dishes with lamb at Spice Merchant, always beautifully tender, so I hoped this lamb shank would be cooked just as perfectly.

It came in a thick, very good spicy sauce of medium heat. Instead of immediately cutting into the lamb, I did a little test to see just how tender it was. I gave the clean end of the bone hanging over the edge a tentative pull. To my surprise, it lifted straight out of the meat with no resistance at all. That’s how perfect it was.

With good flavours and dishes that are very competitively priced (the Bangladeshi Lamb was just £13), it’s wonderful that Spice Merchant always seems to be busy.

BEARTOWN BREWERY AT THE FOUNTAIN INN, LEEK

After our meal at Spice Merchant, we took a short walk down to The Fountain Inn. Included in my recently updated online guide to Dog Friendly Eating & Drinking in Staffordshire, this is a great traditional pub with multiple CAMRA awards.

It was a really hot summer night, so we made our way through the busy pub and out to the rear beer garden. I say ‘garden’, although it’s actually a small yard. But that shouldn’t put you off because it’s a lovely spot filled with huge, brightly coloured hanging baskets that someone’s looking after very well.

I enjoyed a pint of classic Best Bitter from Congleton-based Beartown Brewery.

Interestingly, I see Beartown have done a collaboration with Chef Thom Bateman of my local restaurant The Flintlock at Cheddleton. They’ve produced an exclusive four-pack of beer, with each paired with one of Thom’s recipes. You get the recipe by scanning the QR code on the can.

For a taste of Thom Bateman’s forthcoming new restaurant Après, go to my August Eating Out Recommendations.

FOOD METRES, NOT MILES, AT THE LITTLE COW SHED

One of the places I regularly walk is Brereton Heath Local Nature Reserve. It’s a wonderful place to watch the seasons change with woodlands, wetland, heath, meadows, and a lake. But I have to admit that one of the things that tempts me there, usually on a Sunday morning, is just over the road.

The Little Cow Shed is actually a series of sheds with vending machines. From these you can get tubs of ice cream, fresh milk straight from the farm in reusable glass bottles, milkshakes, coffee, cakes, and other goodies.

The milk comes from cows that graze in fields around the good-sized picnic area. The superb ice cream is handmade in small batches at Dale Farm. As they say, this means ‘no food miles, just metres.’

At weekends and Bank Holidays, the self-service vending machines are supplemented by a hot food counter selling breakfast baps. All the sausage, bacon, and eggs are locally sourced. This was my bacon and sausage patty bap one sunny Sunday: delicious with quality meat and a good bun.

That day, their stall near the lake was also open for ice creams and drinks. I couldn’t resist a cone of clotted cream ice cream whizzed with fresh blackcurrants – not unlike the famous Dalton’s Spinner here in Staffordshire.

By the way, that may look like a cherry or raspberry on top, but it’s a life ring down by the lake!

VIETNAMESE PHOENIX FLOWERS

I made a wonderful discovery last month. Vietnamese Phoenix Flowers on Piccadilly in Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent. It apparently opened a few months ago, but it was news to me. Anyway, as soon as I could, I went along with partner ID one Saturday lunchtime.

Arriving at the simple, café-style restaurant and takeaway, we were welcomed by the owner and chef with free glasses of hot, light green tea and a plate of prawn crackers.

It seems to be a one-woman show, although the softly spoken owner-chef got a little help from what appeared to be friends or family as it got busier. Understandably, this means there’s a modest menu. All of it wasn’t available, but we loved everything we ate.

We started by sharing classic Vietnamese Summer Rolls (£6.50 – £7.50) which you can have vegan or with pork or shrimp. We went for shrimp at £7.50. For that we got three beautiful rice paper rolls stuffed with noodles and crunchy veg plus the tasty prawns. There was a light dipping sauce on the side.

Everyone seemed to be ordering summer rolls so, as they’re made fresh, there was a little wait. But everything came swiftly after that.

Our Green Papaya Salad with beef (£7.50) had heaps of tender sliced beef hidden under a mound of coriander leaf, julienned veg, bean sprouts and peanuts. It came in a lovely sweet vinegar and lime dressing with a little pleasant chilli heat. It’s also available with chicken, pork, or shrimp for £7/£7.50.

For my main course, I chose Hanoi Grilled Pork Rice Noodle (£13). This was tender, lightly spicy sliced pork with rice noodles, lots of salad, and another bowl of sweet and hot dressing. There wasn’t any of the expected Vietnamese-style pickles or pork meatball, but I did love the fried pork spring roll that came in the latter’s place.

ID had the Chicken Pho (£12). This was a big bowl of beautifully delicately flavoured broth, slices of soft chicken, rice noodles and spring onion. Alongside was a plate of more veg to add: lettuce, bean sprouts plus a wedge of lime. As with my dish, it wasn’t exactly as described on the menu, with no steamed chicken sausage.

As well as the free green tea, we each ordered a glass of sweet but refreshing homemade lemonade (£3 each).

If you can accept that things will come when they’re ready rather than when you expect, and that a few items may be missing from dishes, I highly recommend you give this new venue a chance. Because I think their lovely fresh, appealing food, which comes in generous portions, really is worth it.

AN OLD FAVOURITE FROM A NEW ANGLE: THE LAZY TROUT

I’ve been to The Lazy Trout at Meerbrook countless times, but it was my first time in their outdoor covered area last month. And I thought it was lovely.

Spacious and airy with an impressive wooden ceiling and lights on rope swags, there’s great views too. As it’s heated, I suspect it would be nice and cosy in winter as well. It’s also increased the dog friendly space that’s under cover.

As always, the food was good. I had sun-dried tomato hummus with pita to start, followed by a generous portion of very good haddock and chips. For dessert, there was the nicest fruit salad I’ve had. Lots of fresh pineapple, melon, and apple, with mango and raspberry coulis plus a meringue nest filled with passion fruit Chantilly cream.

I tempted to say I agree with one of a Facebook follower who commented that they prefer the outdoor covered seating to inside.

TURKISH TAKEAWAY FROM MOKISSOS

Back in July, I enjoyed my first meal at Mokissos, the recently opened meze, grill and bar on the outskirts of Leek. You can read all about that meal of traditional Greek and Turkish dishes, both familiar favourites and lesser-known delights, here: Mokissos restaurant review.

Their menu is also available to take away, so last month I decided to try it.

Other half and I shared two starters. First was the classic aubergine dish baba ghanouj. This was beautifully creamy and smoky. In the restaurant, I’d loved my starter of chickpea and broad bean falafel so ordered it again. As before the falafel, nestled on some good hummus, had a crusty, deep brown exterior and a soft, almost puree-like centre with larger pieces of chickpea. The starters came with two big hunks of good Turkish bread.

We followed those with two charcoal grilled kebabs: chicken kofte and lamb kofte. These had lovely subtle spicing with little pieces of red pepper mixed with the minced meat. Instead of the usual salad garnish, they each came with a lovely whole grilled red pepper and chunky piece of mild onion. There was also perfectly cooked rice and little pots of fresh chilli sauce and yogurt.

The takeaway confirmed my initial feelings about Mokissos. It isn’t your standard kebab place, but somewhere offering delicious, authentic dishes, including many you probably haven’t had before. And I would love more of you to give them a try.

PRIMO PIANO: BACKBONE OF THE LEEK INDEPENDENT FOOD SCENE

With new places to eat and drink coming and going, it’s easy to forget those that have been the backbone of the local independent food scene for years.

Primo Piano in Leek is one such place and must have fed thousands of satisfied customers in their cosy upstairs venue. So, after too long away, on the final day of last month I went back and had a fantastic dinner.

To start, I had a marinara garlic bread (£4.90). It was a lovely chewy, pizza style bread with punchy anchovies that were half crispy and half melting into the dough.

ID had the caprese salad (£6.90). But it wasn’t the usual simple mozzarella and tomato. Also on the attractive dish were roasted peppers and tomato, and a red pepper sauce. It was finished with their signature curls of crispy parsnip.

For our main course, we both chose the seafood pappardelle special (£28). This was an outstanding dish. Heaps of perfectly cooked seafood (jumbo king prawns, little shrimp, mussels, salmon, sea bass, fat juicy scallops) in a light cream and white wine sauce.

ID asked for a bit of simple bread to mop up the lovely sauce. What came was a generous portion (he snaffled one slice before I had a chance to take the photo) of great quality sourdough. If I had to guess, I say it was from brilliant local bakery Live Love Loaf. When we got the bill, we saw they’d kindly provided it free of charge.

To finish, we had two enjoyable desserts (£6.90 each). Lemon tart for me and classic tiramisu for ID. To drink, we had a bottle of white Rioja which was a bargain at £19.90.