First meal out since lockdown: lunch at The Lazy Trout
Yesterday, I had my first meal out since lockdown. For this notable occasion, I headed to an old favourite: The Lazy Trout pub in Meerbrook.
Set in the beautiful Staffordshire Moorlands countryside and serving outstanding food and drink, what better place could there be?
LOCKDOWN
I had my last meal out, before the COVID-19 lockdown was announced, on Saturday 14th March. Just two days before the announcement, we’d gone to Cafe Apollonia in Leek for one of their great All Day Breakfasts.
I wrote about it in my Food & Drink Round-Up for March 2020 and said that I expected it to be my last meal out for a while. But I don’t think even I, admittedly something of a pessimist, thought it would be almost FIVE MONTHS before I would be eating out again.
Re-reading that March round-up, I can see that a ‘keep calm and carry on’ attitude had already turned to anxiety. I ended the post by outlining some of my fears, including “…how our independent food and drink businesses will survive and come out the other side”.
Some businesses have still yet to come out the other side. Sadly, we now know that others will not. Testament to my feelings of despair as the death toll grew, I stopped writing my monthly round-ups altogether. I began one for April but didn’t have the heart to finish it.
Torn between wanting to support independent businesses, but my gut telling me things were probably opening up too soon, I was more comfortable with using takeaway services from the likes of The Old Mill, Primo Piano, Spicy Lanka and The One dim sum & noodle bar.
Why am I telling you all this?
Too underline the fact that, perhaps like you, I wasn’t one of those champing at the bit to go to pubs, cafes and restaurants again.
However, it now seems that ‘the new normal’ is here to stay for the foreseeable future. So, on Saturday, I had my first meal out since lockdown began. But it had to be the right place for me.
THE LAZY TROUT
I don’t know how many times I’ve been to The Lazy Trout, but it only seems to get better. Although I’ve written about it here, I think the changed circumstances warrant another review of this great pub.
When we arrived early on Saturday lunchtime, there were still some inside tables available. But we felt more comfortable outside where there were two unreserved tables left. The beer garden is lovely anyway, with beautiful views of The Roaches.
Straight away, I could see the pub was taking safety seriously. Along one outside wall, a new bank of sinks had been installed for customers to wash and sanitize their hands. Outside, there was plenty of space between tables with some of them under a marquee.
All the staff were wearing visors and followed social distancing rules. As required, they also took our contact details.
I immediately felt safe and comfortable, helped along by a pint of Sir Philip (£3.30) from nearby Wincle Brewery.
STARTER
As this was mine and partner ID’s first meal out together since lockdown (he’s been in restaurants a few times while working away), the usual question of ‘shall we have a starter?’ was even more superfluous than usual. The answer is almost always an eager ‘yes’, even when we’re not in celebratory mood.
We decided to start off with what turned out to be an outstanding Greek meze sharing platter (£17.95).
I believe the chef at the Lazy Trout is Greek, and you’ll find a number of Greek influenced dishes on offer.
The menu said that the platter would serve 2-4 people and yes, I’m sure it would be enough for 4 normal appetites.
Our excuse for scoffing the lot between the two of us, besides it being wonderful, is that we’d skipped breakfast.
As you might expect, there was hummus as well as marinated mixed olives. The Greek flatbread, with a sprinkle of herbs, was very good.
The tzatziki often found on such platters was also there, but I’ve rarely had one as good as this. I often find the yogurt in this classic appetizer thin and bland. But this was lovely and thick, creamy, properly strained Greek yogurt with lots of cucumber and fresh herbs including dill.
I think the stuffed vine leaf dolmades were the best I’ve had. I’ve had some dolmades that were almost tasteless, but these were a delight with a good hit of mint flavouring the rice filling.
My absolute favourite on the platter though was something I hadn’t heard of before: tirokafteri.
Tirokafteri was a wonderful spicy, creamily smooth feta dip with roasted peppers, paprika and a little kick of chilli. I love feta dishes of all kinds and no doubt I’ll be having a go at making this one.
If your appetite doesn’t quite match ours, then all of the dishes on the platter are available individually as starters.
MAINS
There’s an extensive choice of mains at The Lazy Trout and a daily specials menu too.
STEAK
For my main I had a 10oz sirloin steak (£19.95).
Coincidentally, steak was also the subject of my last full length eating out review when I went to The Tap Steakhouse in Stafford back in February.
I’ve had steaks at The Lazy Trout before, so knew it would be good, tasty and local too.
The steak came cooked exactly as requested and with a lovely garlicky herb butter on top. There’s a range of optional sauces too, but I kept mine simple.
On the menu, steaks come with mixed veg, but they happily agreed to my request for salad instead. This was very fresh, with a perky, mustardy dressing.
Alongside was a soft and juicy confit tomato. A million miles from the all-too-often virtually raw specimen that’s barely been shown the grill.
The tomato sat on a thick chunk of tender mushroom with its topping of sweetly caramelized onion.
As always, lovers of proper chips aren’t disappointed at The Lazy Trout. As usual, these were bang on: chunky with a good crispy exterior.
In the wrong hands, steak and chips can be a heavy affair. But here, with the imaginative garnishes, it seemed lighter and fresher.
In fact, absolutely right for a summery lunch outside.
HAKE
For his main course, ID chose a Spanish-inspired fish dish from the Specials menu: Hake (£16.95).
The large fillet was very fresh and perfectly cooked.
It sat on a stew of tomatoes, chickpeas and tiny bits of chorizo, with parmentier potatoes (little cubes, roasted or sautéed).
On top was fresh green tenderstem broccoli and a tangle of pea shoots.
Another lovely dish exactly right for summer eating.
DESSERT
After all that, lesser appetites may have said a firm ‘no’ to pudding.
But we were both drawn to a panna cotta flavoured with honey, vanilla and cinnamon, served with roasted peaches (£5.75).
There was none of that ‘one dessert and two spoons’ malarkey though. We both wanted our fair share of what sounded like a great dessert.
The creamy panna cotta was outstandingly good in flavour and texture.
Gloriously wibbly wobbly and not too sweet, I’d even say it was one of the best (maybe the best?) I can remember.
But I think it was those roasted peaches that drew me to this pudding. After several years of being disappointed with hard, underripe peaches, I seem to have been lucky and had lots of good, juicy ones this year.
Cooked to a almos-falling-apart softness, these were even better. The roasting had caramelized the outside, intensifying the sweetness and giving them a more complex flavour.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
I don’t think I could have bettered The Lazy Trout for my first meal out since lockdown. From countless previous visits, I knew that having a satisfying meal would pretty much be a foregone conclusion.
But, in these strange COVID times, the pub and its staff also did a great job in making a nervous nelly like me feel safe while enjoying that wonderful meal.
Despite some lockdown easing, it’s still a tough time for pubs, cafes and restaurants, and those doing everything possible to be COVID safe deserve our support. If you feel ready to have your first meal out since lockdown, or perhaps you’ve never visited it before, then The Lazy Trout is a great choice.
Inside, it’s a wonderful space, largely traditional and full of character. But if you’re happier outside, then you can enjoy superb views of our beautiful Staffordshire Moorlands .
Highly recommended.
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