Tasting Menu with Professional MasterChef Finalist Louisa Ellis
Last night I was among a group of very lucky diners at The George at Alstonefield. We were there for a tasting menu from Louisa Ellis, finalist in Masterchef: The Professionals 2017.
Now working as a private chef, cooking at events, pop-ups and holding cookery classes, Louisa’s menu was inspired by her recent trips to France and New York.
I first got to sample some of Louisa’s cooking back in June this year. In residence at The George for two weeks, she assisted James Cochran of restaurant 12:51 during his tasting menu. You might know James as 2018 winner of BBC2’S Great British Menu.
Read about the James Cochran tasting menu in my June 2019 Round-Up here
But last night Louisa was in the driving seat, ably supported by The George’s own talented team including chef Matt Egan.
Yesterday also happened to be my fiftieth birthday (I’ll just assume you’re thinking, ‘ooh, she doesn’t look it, does she?’). When I heard about this event, I’d immediately cancelled my existing plans and got myself and partner ID booked in.
We were treated to six courses plus coffee and petit fours (£70 per person). Suggested wines for each course were also available.
BREAD & BUTTER
First off was Milk Bread & Butter. This was a dinky little slice each of wonderful smelling bread.
Lightly sweet, this was a delight spread with the whipped creamy butter.
CRAB
Next we were presented with beautiful, delicate-looking Hand-Picked Crab, Apple & Crispy Pork.
In the shallow bowl was a neat circle of creamy crab meat, its richness lifted by the acidity of small shreds of apple.
On top were contrasting, smokily barbecued kernels of corn, which also brought some chew.
Even more satisfying texture came from little nuggets of crunchy pork skin.
MUSHROOMS
The next course, Truffle Gnocchi, Wild Mushrooms, Parmesan, was one of those dishes whose aroma grabbed you first.
The umami-rich smell from a variety of slippery mushrooms layered with discs of truffle gnocchi, topped with Parmesan, was accentuated when our server poured over a clear dashi stock.
The flavour was incredible too. Deep, savoury and lasting long after our bowls had been cleared away.
MONKFISH
At the end of the evening, we both agreed that Monkfish Tail, Onion & Brown Butter Béarnaise Foam was our favourite dish of the whole menu.
As with the mushrooms and gnocchi, I just had to inhale deeply over this bowl to take in all the enticing smells.
I have to say that the monkfish itself was the best I’ve eaten. Monkfish is often described as having a texture similar to lobster. But, like lobster, overcooked it can turn horribly rubbery. Here though, it was the softest, most delicate I’ve had. Its flavour was subtly sweet.
I loved the airy, buttery Béarnaise foam that blanketed the top of the fish and also the scattering of crispy onion. There was a nicely tender baby leek too.
Sitting beneath all that was an intense puree of caramelized onions, with a perfect balance of sweet and savoury.
BEEF
Looking at the menu as a whole, I got the impression that the flavours were meant to gradually build. We’d started with delicate, milky bread and crab, moved to umami-rich mushrooms and Parmesan, then the monkfish and its sensational sauce and puree.
So Welsh Wagyu Denver, Jerusalem Artichoke, Pepper Sauce sounded just the thing to finish off our savoury courses. It certainly looked the part with its mainly brown tones and hints of pink from the slices of beef peeping out.
I liked the crispy artichoke slices and the perfectly cooked discs of turnip. Louisa’s fine talent for sauces shone through again with the specimen here. The peppery element was well judged and not overpowering.
Not to my taste though was the hint of vanilla in the puree.
The beef, which sounded wonderful, didn’t have the depth of flavour I was looking for though. Also, I don’t know what cut it was but there was a fair amount of inedible sinew in two of my three slices which I had to eat around.
I might have questioned my own judgement, but sitting near to us were the owners of The Old Mill Smokehouse in Leek, who know a thing or two about meat. We met them by chance, got chatting, and they seemed to agree.
It was a pity but, in fairness, when I came to pay the bill I found that a very reasonable amount had been deducted. I hadn’t asked for this, but just mentioned the issue to our server when the plates were cleared. Mistakes can happen anywhere, but at least this was dealt with appropriately.
DESSERT
Happily, we were back on form again with our dessert of Salted Caramel & Madeira Tart.
Everyone loved this, along with the apparently simple but perfect ice cream that came with it.
I especially loved the pastry shell which I’m sure was the thinnest, crispiest I’ve eaten.
Along with our coffees came exquisite little petit fours: a dark fruit jelly and, my favourite, a fudge-like cube that was both smooth and walnutty.
TREAT YOURSELF
The wagyu issue aside, I thoroughly enjoyed my birthday treat.
Louisa Ellis is a real talent and you’d be wise to catch her at pop-up like this if you can.
At the time of writing, she’ll next appear on 9 December at the fabulous Boat Inn near Lichfield in a cook off with Liam Dillon. They’ll cook alternate courses and diners will decide which were their favourites. A donation will be made to each chefs’ chosen charity. The event’s sold out, but ring the restaurant on 01543 361692 to be on the waiting list for any cancellations.
Read my review of The Boat Inn here
I think it’s wonderful that Staffordshire venues like The George at Alstonefield and The Boat Inn host up and coming chefs like Louisa Ellis, bringing their food to a wider audience.
Unsurprisingly, these events are extremely popular. I highly recommend you get on both their mailing lists to be among the first to hear about them.
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