Troutsdale Farm, Shropshire Breed Lamb

Troutsdale Farm is a family-run farm set in the beautiful Staffordshire Moorlands Peak District. In this post I want to tell you about their flock of traditional Shropshire Breed sheep and the superb lamb they produce. Slow reared, grass fed and with full traceability this is lamb ‘with a taste from the past… for the future’. I’ll also share with you some of the recipes I’ve made with this succulent, tender and flavourful meat.

JOURNEY TO TROUTSDALE FARM

I’ll be honest. The July evening I set out for Troutsdale Farm, I was not in the best of moods. Some life-changing stuff had been taking place over the previous few months which had come to a head that day. Add to that the transformation, albeit temporarily, of the beautiful summer weather into a rather drizzly day, and my mood was about as dark as the clouds hanging over our bit of the Staffordshire Moorlands.

But I’d arranged to pick up a lamb box and get some background for a blog post. So I really had to go.

During the short journey from our house to the farm, the clouds did lift a little. But other half, who was driving, took us the wrong way, against my protestations. This meant we sailed right by the farmhouse and ended up at Troutsdale’s self-catering accommodation. Lovely, but not where we were supposed to be. Wound up by the squabble that briefly broke out, when we finally got there I was feeling rather tense.

However, within five minutes of meeting the Turnock family, I couldn’t have been happier. But before I explain why, I’ll go back a step. I’d better tell you how I came to know about Troutsdale Farm and what sent me there.

SHROPSHIRE BREED LAMB AT THE LAZY TROUT

One of my favourite pubs in the Staffordshire Moorlands is The Lazy Trout at Meerbrook. We’ve been there countless times as, besides its range of local and real ales, they serve wonderful food. Although I rarely choose a traditional roast when eating out, that’s what I did one Sunday lunchtime. The menu read: ‘Roasted Leg of Shropshire Breed Lamb (Troutsdale Farm, Blackshaw Moor), Yorkshire pudding, mashed and dripping roast potatoes, root vegetables and greens. Thyme and red wine gravy.’ Now, how could I resist that?

Like me, The Lazy Trout is an advocate of local food. Troutsdale Farm is a pleasant stroll from the pub, so you can’t get much more local than that. As I’d come to expect from The Lazy Trout, it was a great lunch. But star of the show was the superb lamb. Tender and full of flavour, it was quite easily the best lamb I’d tasted in a good long while.

Click here to read my review of The Lazy Trout

SHALL I, SHAN’T I?

Later, researching this fabulous meat and hoping to buy some, I was a little disappointed to find that the smallest amount you could purchase was half a lamb. Half a lamb? That sounded big. How much freezer space does half a lamb take up? No idea. Probably way too much. And wouldn’t it be really expensive?

These thoughts came and went in my mind for several months. I really wanted some of that lamb but I kept telling myself it was just too much bother. It probably wouldn’t fit in the freezer anyway.

Finally, while I was away on holiday in Anglesey, I took the plunge. I saw Troutsdale’s post on social media saying some mature lamb would soon be available. In truth, I think the spur to action was simply that, away from home, I couldn’t go into the kitchen, look at my freezer and say, ‘nah, half a lamb will never fit in there.’ Relaxing on holiday I thought, ‘I’ll worry about that later’.

So, before I could change my mind, I sent off an email and placed my order. After a friendly exchange I arranged to pick up my lamb box a few days after our holiday.

SHROPSHIRE BREED SHEEP

At this point, you might well be thinking, why Shropshire sheep in Staffordshire? Well, Shropshires are a breed of sheep, actually the oldest pedigree breed in the UK. This is entirely different to sheep which just happen to have been raised in Shropshire. Also, despite their modern name, they actually originated in the hills of North Staffordshire as well as Shropshire. Sadly, over time the Staffordshire part of their name was dropped.

As with many native and traditional breeds, Shropshires declined as the domination of the supermarkets grew. The emphasis on fast-growing breeds suitable for mass production was to the detriment of those grown slowly for a better flavour.

However, against that trend there’s now an increasing number of people who want to go back to traditional, slow-raised, well-flavoured meats reared responsibly and with traceability. This, and the work put in by breeders like Troutsdale Farm, means that Shropshires are no longer in the Rare breed category.

As the Shropshire Sheep Breeders Association says, ‘breeds don’t come back from being rare for no reason’. As I’ve discovered, this lamb is a world away from the bland, boring meat we’ve become accustomed to. It’s richly flavoured, succulent and works well in all sorts of recipes. Towards the end of this post you’ll find links to some of the dishes I’ve made with it.

AT TROUTSDALE FARM

So that’s the story of how I found myself at Troutsdale Farm.

When we eventually got to the farmhouse, mum Barbara and daughter Kathryn were immediately welcoming. While we were chatting, I surreptitiously eyed the lamb box nearby. I was relieved to see it wasn’t frighteningly huge after all.

They explained how the family had been farming there since 1971 but got their first Shropshire sheep only six or seven years ago. Included among them was Evie, a special girl after whom Evie’s Flock is named. (Actually, if you’ve a moment, go to the link and find the video of Evie eating cake on her fifteenth birthday. If you don’t love it, you officially have a heart of stone). It soon became clear that Shropshires are Kathryn’s passion. She talked about the breed with an enthusiasm and knowledge that had me enthralled. In fact, selling the meat is actually a means of supporting the breed and not simply a commercial venture.

MEETING THE SHEEP (AND AN INSPIRING WOMAN)

We were invited to go out and meet the sheep where we were joined by straight-talking and humorous Ray, the father of the family. By this time, the weather had improved greatly and the evening had turned into a beautiful one.

Bucket of food in hand, surrounded, nuzzled and bumped by wonderful sheep, Kathryn told me all about the family lines and individuals who make up the flock. It was fascinating to hear her talk of their different personalities – yes, sheep have personalities! I loved hearing about the great matriarchs like Barbara, the handsome stud Albert and of course Evie, with whom it all started. I could’ve listened for hours. Kathryn is such an inspiring woman and, considering what she’s achieved, incredibly modest. After telling us that this was one of the largest flocks of Shropshires, she quickly apologised for appearing to ‘blow my own trumpet’.

Kathryn spoke very highly of the Shropshire Sheep Breeders Association and how supportive they were. In fact, she was a little concerned that due to the heatwave and them rolling in the dust the sheep weren’t looking their best for the photographs. I think she was worried she might be letting down the breed she clearly loves so much. I may be a newbie sheep enthusiast, but I’d bet my life the Association thinks she’s doing a wonderful job as ambassador.

Shropshires are excellent wool producers and Kathryn explained that she’d been experimenting with making yarn and wool as well as processing sheepskins. Her enthusiasm was wonderful and, sitting here surrounded by notebooks full of ideas for my own projects, I so admire her will to keep moving forward.

I’ve learnt that another reason Shropshire sheep are valued is that they will graze among orchards without damaging trees. This means they can be used to keep down grass and weeds without the need for sprays. That’s exactly how Troutsdale Farm produces its naturally grown Christmas trees. It was lovely to hear how families come back year after year to select their own tree and make a day of it on the farm.

By the way, the photos above and below are of gorgeous ram Albert. I don’t think he got the memo about Shropshires not damaging trees. Or maybe a nibble or two is fine.

Moving to a field behind the farmhouse, Kathryn called to the sheep and banged the food bucket. Looking out over the beautiful Staffordshire Moorlands, with the sun starting to go down, countless sheep came running towards us across the wide, open field. For me who, until five years ago, had lived only in towns and cities, this was magical. ‘You won’t get to see this anywhere else’, Kathryn says. And I do feel privileged, and moved, to be witnessing it. Characteristically, Kathryn immediately apologises for seeming boastful. This just makes me like her even more.

LEAVING TROUTSDALE FARM

Glancing at my watch, I couldn’t believe we’d been there almost an hour and a half. The time had gone by so quickly and enjoyably.

As we made our way back to the car I’d got so wrapped up talking to Kathryn again (not just about the farm, the sheep, the lamb, but social media, olive oil – all sorts of things) that we almost left without the lamb! Luckily, Barbara had quietly slipped into the house and brought the box out to the car for us. Finally remembering to pay, we said our goodbyes and were happy to receive an invitation to come back during lambing or even just to spend more time with the sheep if we wanted to.

I’d started the evening in a hell of a grump, to put it mildly. But, driving back through the stunning countryside that I’m so lucky to now call home, I actually felt joyful. Who’d have thought sheep could do that?

“A TASTE FROM THE PAST… FOR THE FUTURE”

On every piece of meat in my lamb box from Troutsdale Farm was a label. Alongside thanks for supporting the traditional Shropshire breed it said, ‘a taste from the past… for the future’.

While this quality lamb offers flavour that most people, brought up on mass produced, bland meat, will not have had before, it seems to me that producers like Troutsdale Farm are not just harking back to some mythic golden age.

Rather, its emphasis on natural, slow food, grass fed meat with full traceability, places them firmly in the forward-looking camp.

Many people, like myself, have reduced the amount of meat we eat, hoping that this is more sustainable in the long term. But the meat we do eat must be of quality and raised with concern for the environment and animal welfare. For those of us concerned about the provenance of their food, producers like Troutsdale Farm tick all the boxes.

Kathryn talked about how, to avoid distressing her animals, she made sure they didn’t travel far to slaughter*. The butcher who prepares the meat is local and trusted too. In a world where food often travels thousands of miles, with many consumers having no idea where it came from, nor the conditions in which it was produced, Troutsdale Farm seems like a model that demands our support.

*In the last decade, over a third of the UK’s small abattoirs have closed. Without them, locally produced, traceable meat like this will not be possible. Read more here.

So, if you want some of this excellent, ethically reared meat, what can you do?

• Look out for Troutsdale Farm Shropshire breed lamb on the menu at The Lazy Trout and order it
• Ask your local pub to try serving Shropshire breed lamb
• Visit the excellent Village Butcher Ipstones as they sometimes stock it (pick up some of their home reared beef while you’re there)
• Ask your butcher to stock Shropshire breed lamb

Finally, of course… order a lamb box direct from Troutsdale Farm.

TROUTSDALE FARM LAMB BOXES

There are two types of Troutsdale lamb box, available seasonally. From the early part of the year through to August, you can buy a box of mature lamb in its second year. This is properly known as hogget. Being older, the mature lamb is bigger and tastier. Between July and December you can buy lamb that was born in the Spring and has grazed all Summer. You can buy a half or a whole lamb.

I bought a half box of the mature hogget and this is what it looked like:

I found that most of this fitted into one drawer of a regular sized, under the counter freezer. It’s actually the dog’s freezer, but he kindly loaned us the space. The big bag you can see top right is the bones, trimmings and offal. Rather than find room in the freezer, I used it straight away to make lamb stock.

Troutsdale will have their butcher prepare your lamb however you want it. You can have various cuts left on the bone or boned and rolled, the leg butterflied or cut into steaks, other cuts like breast and hocks can be minced. We had ours as follows:

Leg: left on the bone and cut in two

Shoulder: cut in two with half left on the bone, the other half cubed

Chops: 3 bags of 4 chops

Breast: boned and rolled

Hocks: minced

The rest of the meat comes as mince. I was also given a lovely big bunch of rosemary and mint plus leaflets about Troutsdale and the Shropshire breed.

If you don’t think you’d have room for half a lamb, why not share with a friend?

QUALITY, VALUE & CONVENIENCE

Including the bones and trimmings, my half lamb weighed 30 pounds or 13.6 kilos. It cost £78 which is £2.60 per pound or £5.73 a kilo. For comparison, the six large lamb chops I’d bought from a butcher the previous month (which were still very good, by the way) had cost around £23.

I found that buying direct from the farm was very economical. Also, with Shropshire breed lamb you’re getting something very special that isn’t widely available.

What I’ve found really useful is to have a wide range of cuts stored in my freezer. That means I can just dip in and make whatever recipe I fancy.

COOKING WITH TROUTSDALE FARM SHROPSHIRE BREED LAMB

I’ve now used each type of cut from my lamb box at least once. I’ve been impressed with the results over a range of different dishes and I’ve shared five of them below.

One thing that surprised me is that this is quite a lean meat. Yes, there is visible fat on cuts like the chops, but the lamb itself is not at all greasy. The fat that’s rendered during cooking is well flavoured and really worth saving – it makes wonderful roast potatoes.

With older lamb, you’d expect to have to cook it a little longer. However, much of what I’ve cooked involves slow cooking and marinades which result in very tender meat anyway.

Click through from any of the links below to go to a selection of recipes made from my Troutsdale Farm lamb box.

SLOW ROASTED LAMB SHOULDER

Using a half shoulder, this was the first meal I made from my lamb box. With the relatively few ingredients used in this one, I think it showcases the flavour of the meat beautifully. It’s a really simple recipe and although it does take four hours to cook, you just put it in the oven and forget about it. It’s a classic roast lamb dish but, with meat this tender, you won’t even need a carving knife, just pull apart with two forks. Click here to go to recipe

HARISSA LAMB CHOPS

Another simple recipe. The thick lamb chops that came in my lamb box were just right for making delicious Harissa Lamb Chops. After marinating in my Harissa Dressing, I could roast them at a high temperature to get a crusty, charred exterior without overcooking the tender meat within. I marinaded the chops overnight, but 2 – 3 hours would give good results too. Click here to go to recipe

KLEFTIKO: GREEK-STYLE LAMB & POTATOES

Kleftiko is a traditional and delicious Greek lamb dish. Marinated overnight then slow-cooked, the lamb is fabulously moist and tender. Cook potatoes underneath the lamb and you’ll get the best roast potatoes ever. It’s another recipe where, once the prep’s done, you put in the oven and forget about it. For my Kleftiko, I used a half leg or you could substitute a whole leg, shoulder or half shoulder. The rich flavoured Shropshire breed lamb goes really well with the powerful garlic, lemon and herb marinade. Click here to go to recipe

SHAKSHUKA WITH MERGUEZ LAMB MEATBALLS

Shakshuka is a spicy North African dish of peppers and onions in a spicy tomato sauce with eggs cooked on top. To replace the merguez sausage sometimes added, here I’ve used various spices to recreate their flavour in meatballs made with minced lamb. Because Shropshire lamb is full-flavoured it stands up really well to the robust spicing. Click here to go to recipe

STUFFED BREAST OF LAMB

Breast of lamb is one of those tasty, economical cuts that’s fallen out of favour. These days it’s likely to be turned into mince but I think it’s good enough to stand on its own. In this recipe, slow cooking and a stuffing of tangy feta and sweet roasted red pepper elevate it to an impressive dish. I think this might be my favourite of the recipes as I was surprised just how good it was. Click here to go to recipe

Images of Troutsdale Farm are copyright Ian Dakin Photography & all other images are copyright Moorlands Eater.

Not to be reproduced without permission.