15/02/2023

Ye Olde Rock Inn, Upper Hulme

Ye Olde Rock Inn is a family run country pub in the stunning Staffordshire Peak District. Although it’s been a pub for over 200 years, it took me until last weekend to pay my first visit. But I shouldn’t have left it so long. Because I found good value food at this unfussy village inn. Read on to find out why it’s my latest eating out recommendation.

It’s a little ironic that it took me so long to finally visit Ye Olde Rock Inn. Because it sits in the area of the Staffordshire Moorlands that I visited many times even before I came to live here almost ten years ago. Just inside the boundary of the Peak District National Park, it’s in Upper Hulme, known to walkers and climbers as the gateway to the stunning landscape of the Roaches. So close is the pub to one of my favourite walking spots, round the back you get a fantastic, uninterrupted view of the Hen Cloud rock formation.

The current owners are Edward and his partner Amie. Edward is the son of Hilary and John Burrows who owned and ran Ye Olde Rock Inn between 1985 and 2009. When they retired it was ran by a tenant until 2019. After a major refurbishment, Edward and Amie re-opened the doors in summer 2021.

YE OLDE ROCK INN: MODERN MEETS TRADITIONAL

The new owners say that while they wanted to modernise, they aimed to keep the character and function of a village pub, not create a restaurant. So, while you can now get fresh, homemade food and table service, it’s also fine to come in just for a pint and a game of dominoes, pool, or darts.

Having our dog with us, my partner ID and I had booked a table in the Hiker’s Bar, home to the pool table and dart board. The other dog friendly area is the Hiker’s Retreat room. If you’re bringing your pooch, then the pub says to ring ahead rather than use the online booking system as the main dining area is guide dogs only.

The Hiker’s Bar is a simple but pleasant room and has a great view of Hen Cloud through the back window. I was a bit disappointed there weren’t any local beers on draught. However, if I’d arrived a few days later I could have enjoyed Wincle Brewery‘s Rookery Wood. So I settled for the house ale: Timothy Taylor’s Landlord (£4.40)

THE MENU

At the time of writing, Ye Olde Rock Inn serves food Wednesdays to Sundays 12.00 – 8.30 pm (8.00 pm on Sundays). The pub is closed Monday and Tuesday except for Bank Holidays and special events like Valentine’s Day. They proudly proclaim that everything is homemade and that ingredients are locally sourced when possible.

My visit was on a Saturday lunchtime and there was a good choice of starters, mains, grills, salads, sandwiches, desserts and a children’s menu. There’s a slightly reduced offering on Sundays, but with the addition of three choices of roast meat (£15.55) plus a vegetarian roast (£13.55). On weekday lunchtimes you’ll find special deals on some dishes, and Thursday night is steak night with reduced prices.

If I was in for just a drink, I’d be highly tempted to get one of the bar nibbles: things like chips, onion rings, sausage or bacon bap.

STARTERS

On the day of my visit, there were around eight starters, half of which were vegetarian. Prices ranged from £4.25 for Garlic Ciabatta to £7.30 for Mushroom & Chicken Liver Pate. Most dishes were a very reasonable £5.95 to £6.95.

I was tempted by the Belly Pork Bites (£6.95) infused with garlic, chilli and ginger. But that didn’t fit with my choice of main course. So I plumped for Creamy Garlic Mushrooms (£6.95). Being rather hungry, I was glad they came promptly and as a generous portion.

The rich sauce had a moderate rather than overwhelming hit of garlic. I thought it nicely creamy without being cloying. As you should expect as this price, there were no fancy mushrooms, just regular cultivated ones. These came in chunky pieces that still had some bite. On the side was half a brown baguette. Unremarkable, but just right spread with the accompanying butter and used to mop up every bit of the flavoursome sauce.

ID also enjoyed his starter of Homemade Soup of the Day (£5.95). That Saturday it was cream of tomato which had a good clean taste of the fruit.

Besides an accompanying baguette and butter, there was a crispy crouton floating in the fresh soup. A simple dish, but good value.

MAIN COURSES

I counted around twenty choices of main course, plus a couple of salads (£11.55) and sandwiches (£10.80, available until 5pm). At the lower priced end were dishes like Sausage & Mash (£11.75) with local sausages, Small Fish & Chips (£11.95), and Cottage Pie (£12.55). At the upper end you’ll find Cajun Sea Bass (£19.95), Beef & Stilton Pie (£18.75), and Fillet Steak with all the trimmings (£24.95). I could spot two vegetarian/vegan mains: Thai Green Curry (£13.25) and Garden Burger (£15.50). The day’s special was a venison burger.

I chose one of the higher priced mains: Confit Belly Pork (£18.95).

On the hearty looking plate were two thick slices of belly pork. The meat was tasty and tender. If you wanted to quibble you could point out that not all the crackling was completely crispy. But a tiny bit of chew among the mainly bubbly skin doesn’t bother me.

The very generous wodge of Dauphinoise potato, soft and creamy underneath, nicely browned on top, was lovely. I often find myself reaching for the salt when served potato dishes, but this was perfectly seasoned.

The fresh, bright green tender stem broccoli was nicely cooked too. I thought the braised red cabbage looked a little dry. But it was fine with the good and rich cider gravy.

ID chose the 8oz Gammon (£11.95, or £17.50 for 16oz) but I’m afraid between us we managed to forget to take a photo! I suppose the reason was, the accompanying fried egg being very hard and almost burnt underneath, he asked for another one. This was quickly done with no quibbling. But it did mean that, somehow, no snap with taken. Anyway, the second egg was cooked perfectly, and the gammon was good quality. It came with grilled pineapple, peas, and some very good fat chips.

DESSERT

As my main had been so large, I couldn’t manage one of Ye Olde Rock Inn’s filling-sounding desserts. All homemade and £7.75 (or just a fiver as part of their weekday lunchtime deal) there were favourites like Sticky Toffee Pudding, Crumble & Custard, or Chocolate Brownie. But I did fancy something sweet. So I chose a single scoop of Wild Strawberry Ice Cream (£2.95).

Although I enjoyed it, I admit I was a little jealous when ID’s Biscoff Meringue Roulade arrived. Served with a scoop of salted caramel gelato, caramel sauce, Biscoff biscuit and crumbs, plus fruit, it looked incredibly appetizing.

From the mouthful I tried (then another!) it tasted good: not overly sweet as some meringue desserts can be.

YE OLD ROCK INN: RECOMMENDED

Our total food bill came to £54.50 or £27.25 per person for three courses. Admittedly, I hadn’t had a ‘proper’ pudding. But I’d had one of the higher priced mains so I think it all evened out to be representative of what you might pay. In these times of rising food costs for businesses as well as households, I consider that to be good value for money.

As you’d expect in a place that wants to remain a pub rather than a restaurant, it’s a friendly, relaxed environment. Lunchtime service was prompt without being hurried, the time between courses being exactly right for me.

I didn’t come away from Ye Olde Rock Inn having discovered anything new or been completely bowled over by innovative cuisine. But I was well fed for a reasonable price in a relaxed, comfortable space. And isn’t that exactly what most people want, most of the time?