Pane Cunzato (Sicilian ‘seasoned bread’)
Pane Cunzato is usually translated as ‘seasoned’ or ‘dressed’ bread. But this classic Sicilian sandwich with humble roots can be incredibly good. Made using good quality rolls, baguettes, or chunks from a large loaf, the base ingredients are simply olive oil, oregano, and tomatoes. Add thin slivers of cheese, anchovies or capers, heat until just warm, and you have something utterly delicious.
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It’s a few years ago now that I discovered Pane Cunzato via Clarissa Hyman’s wonderful book Cucina Siciliana*. In there, she says that pani cunzatu (she uses its Sicilian dialect name) “in its elemental tug at the Sicilian heartstrings, turns a simple sandwich into a philosophy of life”. While I admit this may sound rather grand for a sandwich, once you try it yourself I hope you’ll agree that there’s something rather special about this classic with humble roots.
* If you’d like a copy of Cucina Siciliana hard copies can sometimes be had here and the paperback here. These are affiliate links: I may earn a small commission if you buy via them but at no extra cost to you.
WHAT IS PANE CUNZATO?
Pane Cunzato is usually translated as ‘seasoned’ or ‘dressed’ (cunzato) bread (pane). It’s also been known as ‘bread of misfortune’, indicating its origins as a food for the poor. When there was very little to eat, stale bread would be made more palatable by adding olive oil and dried oregano. Heating the bread would help to soften it and meld the flavours too.
Fresh tomatoes might be added in season, sometimes preserved dried ones. In better times, a few anchovies and/or thin slices of cheese could be included. Some regions might add capers, aubergines, or onions. But, like many foods once associated with the poor, Pane Cunzato has been elevated to something many now enjoy. And it can be as frugal or as elaborate as you choose.
You’ll find a recipe card at the end with instructions and ingredient amounts to serve one. But adapting Pane Cunzato to your own taste and what you have is all part of its charm. So use my recipe and the rest of this post simply as a guide to start you off.
INGREDIENTS FOR PANE CUNZATO
THE BREAD
As its name suggests, bread is the most important ingredient when making Pane Cunzato. You can use almost any roll, baguette, or hunk cut from a full loaf, homemade or shop-bought. But the best results will come from a quality, substantial one rather than something light and flimsy.
Clarissa Hyman’s Cucina Siciliana was also where I learned about Sicilian bread made with semolina flour that’s often used for Pane Cunzato. I make my own: a flavoursome, beautifully golden-coloured loaf with a chewy crumb and sesame-topped crust. Read more and get the recipe for Sicilian Semolina Bread.
For the Pane Cunzato you see in this post, I’ve used homemade Semolina Baguettes. They share all the qualities I love about my original semolina loaf. Outside, the crust is dotted with sesame seeds which add so much flavour. Inside, there’s the same slightly open, firm texture with a pale-yellow tint to the crumb. In the mouth, they’re satisfying and chewy.
If you want to make your own bread for Pane Cunzato, I’ve loads more bread recipes here. As well as French-style baguettes, I love it with these wonderful Italian-style Stirato baguettes too.
OTHER INGREDIENTS
The other ingredients you’ll need for my exceptionally tasty Pane Cunzato, plus salt and pepper, are:
- Extra virgin olive oil. I prefer just a drizzle to moisten the bread, but you can certainly add more.
- Fresh tomatoes. Tasty, firm but ripe. I like to slice them thinnish. It’s also a good idea to dab with kitchen paper.
- Oregano. Dried rather than fresh is traditional. Personally, I think it’s one of those herbs that’s always better dried.
- Red pepper/chilli flakes (optional). For a little heat. In Sicily it would be peperoncino but it’s mild and fruity Aleppo or gochugaru that I keep in my cupboard.
- Anchovy fillets. I roughly chop, but you can leave whole if you like. If you really can’t stand them, try swapping in capers for a veggie salty tang.
- Cheese. In Sicily, the cheese might be caciocavallo, provolone, primo sale (a type of pecorino), or ricotta salata. As I don’t have easy access to those, I most often use either an English ewe’s milk cheese or Manchego. But almost any cheese will work. Whichever you choose, bear in mind that this isn’t a cheese sandwich so use sparingly and cut thinly.
HOW TO MAKE PANE CUNZATO
Bakeries in Sicily selling Pane Cunzato may fill the sandwiches while the fresh bread is still hot. However, at home it’s likely to be more convenient to make it up and reheat later. Although you don’t have to eat the sandwich warm (if you want to take it on a picnic for instance), I think the flavour and textures are much nicer if you do.
Once you’ve gathered your ingredients, it won’t take long to make. So have your oven or air fryer preheated to the temperature shown in the recipe card. Alternatively, if you don’t mind a softer crust, you can heat in a microwave.
Start by slicing your roll, baguette or hunk of good bread through its middle. Now drizzle olive oil (or some of the oil drained from the anchovies) over the bottom piece. Follow this with the sliced tomatoes and season them with salt (bear in mind the saltiness of your anchovies), black pepper, dried oregano, plus red pepper or chilli flakes if using. The anchovies go on next and finally the sliced cheese. Drizzle olive oil over the cut side of the other piece of bread and place it on top, pressing down.
Heat the Pane Cunzato until the cheese and just melted a little: this isn’t a cheese toastie! During this time (around 2 – 3 minutes in an oven or air fryer, 20 – 30 seconds in a microwave), the oregano, seasoning, and anchovies will have formed a delicious combination with the tomatoes.
All that’s left to do then is cut into wedges and enjoy.
One of the things I love about Pane Cunzato is that, with slight variations, you can adapt it to what you have or what you fancy. Sometimes, I’ll leave off the anchovy, replace with capers, or nothing at all. You can also add a little chopped garlic or finely sliced onion. But, simple or more elaborate, it’s always good.
If you’ve made this recipe, I’d love to know what you thought. Please do leaving a rating and comment.
Pane Cunzato (Sicilian 'seasoned bread')
Usually translated as 'seasoned' or 'dressed' bread this Sicilian sandwich with humble roots can be incredibly good. The basic ingredients are simply olive oil, oregano, and tomatoes. But add thin slivers of cheese, anchovies or capers, heat until just warm, and you have something very special.
It's recommended that you read the accompanying blog post before starting the recipe.
Ingredients
- 1 medium bread roll, baguette, or similarly sized piece cut from a loaf (see Recipe Notes)
- 2 - 3 tsp extra virgin olive oil
- 2 medium tomatoes (sliced thinly, dabbed with kitchen paper)
- salt and black pepper
- a few pinches dried oregano
- a few pinches red pepper flakes or chilli flakes (optional)
- 15 g anchovies in olive oil (approx. half a standard tin)
- 3 - 4 thin slices cheese e.g. Manchego (see Recipe Notes)
Instructions
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If you'll be heating the sandwich, preheat your oven to 220°C /200°Fan /Gas 7 /425°F.
Tip: can also be heated in an air fryer or, for a softer crust, in a microwave.
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Split the roll, baguette, or bread through the middle.
Drizzle the bottom half with extra virgin olive oil (or some of the oil from the anchovies if preferred).
Lay the sliced tomatoes over one side of the bread and season with salt (bearing in mind the saltiness of your anchovies), black pepper, and oregano, plus red pepper/chilli flakes if liked.
Chop the anchovies if liked or leave whole and lay them over the tomatoes.
Place the cheese slices over the tomatoes.
Drizzle olive oil on the inside of the top half of the bread then place it on top of the filling and gently press down.
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Sandwich can be eaten as is or wrapped and left for the flavours to meld but is even better heated: place in your preheated oven or air fryer and warm until the cheese is just melting a little (2 - 3 minutes) or 20 - 30 seconds in a microwave.
Serve straight away, cut into wedges.
Recipe Notes
Breads to use. Choose good quality crusty bread. In the blog post I've used homemade Semolina Baguettes as semolina bread is traditional for Sicilian Pane Cunzato. My Stirato Italian-style baguettes or French-style baguettes would also be good. You can also cut a similarly sized piece from a large loaf.
Cheeses to use. Traditionally caciocavallo, primo sale (Pecorino), or ricotta salata, but almost any cheese will work. Recommended are Manchego or an English sheep's cheese. Whichever you choose, use sparingly and cut thinly so as not to overwhelm the other flavours.
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